Review: Four in Oyster Bay

Claudia Taglich and Jesse Schenker’s growing Oyster Bay restaurant empire includes a dining experience unlike anything else on Long Island: a $275 12- to 15-course chef's tasting menu that's delivered on Thursday through Saturday nights only to 10 diners seated at a counter overlooking the kitchen.

Four was the second restaurant Schenker opened in town, adjacent to the chic 2 Spring, where the menu changes seasonally. Schenker has since added six more spots to his resume including Provisions Market, the Emilia-Romagna inspired Gioia, and most recently, Westbury's The Comet Club.

Four is a fine-dining affair where watching the prep for the next course is the entertainment. In the open kitchen, cooks simmer sauces, sear meats, poach fish and plate dishes throughout the ever-changing menu. A meticulous serving staff pairs wine and clears plates like magicians, elaborating on the bounty of treats that arrive for your palate’s consideration. Bite-sized tartlets, inspired pastas, perfectly cooked Wagyu beef, and fish from all regions of the world are just some of the creatively prepared dishes you may discover on your visit.

The menu is constantly evolving, but you might find a bite-sized tomato tartlet with triple-cream La Tur and togarashi spices or a housemade tostada, with braised and grilled octopus topped with white bean purée, salsa verde and cilantro to start. Wagyu, once served with black cherry and pepper is now olive-fed and served with pecorino and port.

Schenker is adept at stuffed pastas, and they make an appearance hyper-seasonally. If they're on the menu when you visit, you're in luck. Last season's soulful fall riff on ravioli with squash, brown butter, and French comté was sublime, as was orrechiete with garlic scapes and ‘nduja -- a Schenker-esque take on Italian broccoli rabe and sausage. Three dishes are signatures: a decadent, foie gras duck fat croissant; a puffed beef tendon with cured egg and togarashi and kaluga caviar; and dry-aged beef with maitake, or hen of the woods mushrooms. Dinners conclude with petit fours, made daily and sold (along with all the bread service) at Schenker's nearby bakery, Provisions Bread & Cheese.

Indeed this is an affair that involves a splurge on many levels — beyond the base price, diners reserve (and pay for) their seats well in advance. Indulgent flourishes — caviar, foie gras, truffles, uni and Champagne — abound and come at additional costs. Customized wine pairings are offered and encouraged.

Schenker, always a floor presence at his restaurants, is most accessible here, where he shares rousing tales from the trenches. 

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